Tools
required:
Cooling
system Hydrometer, cooling system pressure tester (Safety boots, safety glasses
and overalls)
Following
the manufactures workbook we tested the condition of the cooling system
1. First off we visually checked the
condition of the radiator, radiator tubes and fins, condition of hoses,
radiator cap. Looking for any leaks, splits, cracks or any other damage.
2. Our radiator had damaged fins and
tubes which caused radiator fluid to slowly leak. Our hoses and connections
were in good condition.
3. Next we used a hydrometer to
check the coolant Antifreeze. Our coolant had a 127 degrees Celsius which was
within manufactures specification and our freezing point was at -34 degrees Celsius
which was above manfucters specification.
4. We then tested the thermostat, dipping
it in boiling water making sure that it opens at the right temperature. Ours
did not open at all which was an automatic fail. A good thermostat should open
at 88 degrees Celsius.
5. The radiator cap pressure was
checked using a pressure tester. The cap should release pressure at 13psi which
ours did not so the cap was not serviceable
6. We also used another pressure
tester to check the cooling system for leaks. We put 13psi into the radiator
with the cap on and checked for any leaks around the radiator tanks, heater
hoses, heater core, cylinder head gasket, frost plugs and water pump. We found
our Radiator tank did have a slight leak in it due to the damaged fins and
tubes.
7. A inspection of the fan belt was
then taken place. Rotating the engine looking for signs of un even wear,
cracks/damage and checking for polished sides and signs of slipping. Our belt
was in good condition and did not need replacing.
8. Next we checked the water pump
pulley for any play and making sure the bearing didn’t make a noise while
spinning which would indicate faults. There was no play in the water pump, the
bolts were tight and there was no noise why spinning it, no further action was
needed.
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